The big cover-up: Shunning the sun has become big business in China

The Chinese, unlike many Western counterparts, don't worship suntans. Just look at the cyclists and pedestrians on the streets during the height of summer – parasols, head-to-toe protective clothing, faces hidden behind quirky "facekinis" and eyes shielded by sunglasses.

Ultraviolet protection from the sun's rays has become big business in China.

The market for UV protective products surged to 74.2 billion yuan (US$10.3 billion) in 2023 and is expected to hit 95.8 billion yuan by 2026.

Hot summers are nothing new in China, but data from the China Meteorological Administration suggests this year may be a record-breaker. Temperatures at 228 national weather stations across the country have soared above 40 degrees Celsius against the stark backdrop of global warming.

"Compared with 2023, 2024 is likely to be hotter, with even more instances of extreme weather events," said Zhou Bing, chief climate services specialist at the National Climate Center.

The surge in heat is accompanied by rising sales in the sun-protection clothing market, with Chinese consumers keen to take measures to protect themselves from harmful rays.

"I commute to work on an electric bike every day, and my face and neck were getting very sunburned," said Jiang Wei, who works in a supermarket in Shanghai.

This year, for the first time, his attention turned to "physical sun protection" when he invested 199 yuan in a branded sun-protective garment.

Nurse Chen Huijun also purchased similar clothing for her family.

"It's incredibly popular this year," she said. "You see many people wearing protective clothing while outside. Some girls are wrapped up tightly from head to toe. Even my husband, who never used to use sunscreen, said he wants to buy some."

A random walk along the streets testifies to sun shunning. Almost everyone, including delivery workers, is equipped with sun-protective gear.

The market for sun-protective clothing, previously dominated by outdoor laborers and women who regard pale skin as the epitome of beauty, has rapidly expanded to include the general public.

In the two weeks before the May Day holiday this year, according to statistics from major online shopping platform JD.com, there was a significant spike in sales for sun-protective clothing.

Transactions for children's sun-protective garments and outdoor sun-protective wear surged by over 100 percent, while sales for men's sun-protective clothing increased by more than 80 percent.

On the first day of this year's June 18 shopping festival on e-commerce platform Taobao.com, the women's fashion category was dominated by "sun-protective clothing," with seven of the top 10 bestsellers falling within that category.

In May alone, sun-protective clothing within the women's wear sector on Taobao generated sales of 1.1 billion yuan, accounting for about a quarter of the annual 2023 sales total.

Companies, both foreign and domestic, have been quick to seize on the new trend.

Shanghai-based Bosideng has emerged as one leader in the domestic sun-protective apparel market, after introducing its first line of the clothing about two years ago. Also active in the market are Chinese brands Moution, Sinsin, OhSunny and Bananain.

Shenzhen-based protective-apparel maker Beneunder Ltd, which filed a notice in 2022 for an initial public offering on the Hong Kong stock exchange, has tapped celebrities like Taiwan pop singer Jay Chou to promote its apparel.

Global brands like Japan's Uniqlo, France's Decathalon, Germany's Puma, Australia's Bamboo Body and US-based Lululemon and Nike also offer sun-protective clothing in their apparel lines.

From a niche market into a mainstream economic force in China, the sun-protective clothing industry is increasingly turning to technology to enhance product functionality and appeal.

From thread and fabric to design, innovation is making sun-protective garments more effective and comfortable than ever before.

Recent trends in sun-protective clothing have shifted from coated fabrics to integrating UV protection directly into yarn. This technique not only ensures sustained sun protection but also improves garment breathability and comfort.

The industry is producing "cooling fabrics" that keep wearers dry and comfortable. Fabrics combining eco-friendly bamboo fibers with strong, wrinkle-resistant polyester enhance breathability, moisture-wicking and antibacterial properties.

Puma, for example, launched a summer sun-protective clothing line designed for both urban and outdoor settings.

The collection features vibrant colors and stylish cuts, infused with technologies that offer UPF50+ protection, quick-drying and cooling effects. This range includes jackets, T-shirts, polo shirts, pants and skirts.

Historical perceptions of beauty in China underpin some of the allure of the sun-protective apparel industry.

The Chinese have traditionally esteemed pale skin as a symbol of beauty and social status, a sentiment encapsulated in the ancient saying: 一白遮三丑 (yi bai zhe san chou), or "one whiteness covers three uglies."

This cultural preference has deep historical roots. Fair skin was associated with wealth and nobility – a sign that one was not a common laborer in the sun. With today's modern emphasis on appearance, a light skin complexion remains a symbol of personal grooming and social esteem.

But there may be more complex motivations behind this phenomenon.

"I completely understand people's desire to protect themselves from the sun," writer Qiaomai Chen observed on her Weibo microblog. "The extent to which people are covering faces entirely and ensuring every possible exposed area such as the neck and arms are covered suggests the notion not just of sun protection but also of making oneself completely disappear. Sun-protective clothing has become the modern 'invisibility cloak.'"

That suggests the act of covering up can be viewed as a metaphor for the pressures of visibility and scrutiny in public life. For some, cloaking garments offer a retreat into anonymity or a buffer against the outside world.

"We use sun-protective clothing to conceal and isolate ourselves," wrote Chen. "Sun protection serves a functional purpose and naturally facilitates a form of concealment. Our will is focused on constructing and protecting the self."